Contact us to Help Get your FD back on the road

The well known rotary shops are so busy they probably aren’t the best place to help you with your basket case barn find. That’s where we can help you. We have amassed a collection of known good / hot tested short block kegs and complete take out motors (a motor with every accessory on it)

We will even customize it for you so you only pay for what you need and we resell the rest to someone else looking for that part. For example, want us to remove every single emissions and twin turbo-only part like we did for our Dom and Han builds?

Just pay for what you need and we’ll keep the rest for someone else that needs those parts

Want to buy a short block that’s been hot tested on our engine stand?

Want a to buy a known good 13B that doesn’t need a rebuild on day 1 and get video of it running on our engine stand with, see the compression test, and see it hot starting? Try to find that anywhere else.

Want to buy an engine with as many or as few of the engine accessories on it? We’ll customize it to exactly what you need.

Want us to re-dress the wiring harness and clip all the emissions and twin turbo connectors to simplify your engine bay?

We’ll even add as many wires as you need through the firewall grommet for additional sensors. I have yet to need an expensive brand new wiring harness. And if you do, I can convert readily available JDM harnesses to USDM pinout.

Just contact us and let us know what you need

Let us know a little bit about the state of your car and what you need so we can schedule a consultation call.

Want to see it in action?

Our shop cars demonstrate just about every configuration a 2 rotor FD can be built for (all with safe boost and AFR levels)

• Red Touring 12k mile stock+ (Power FC, downpipe, hi flow cat, catback, K&N air filter) making 250 WHP vs 220 stock

• Montego blue 36k mile maxed out twins car with safe 315 WHP

• Dom RX7 with single turbo making safe 380WHP and hi boost setting to 415 WHP

• Han RX7 (it runs but not street legal yet) EFR8374 / 550 WHP semi-peripheral port (Semi-P)

• Han was built and balanced by Rotary Performance and it’s about as far can you take an FD on the stock drivetrain because 1/4 mile racers in the late 90s blew a lot of 3rd gears, axles, driveshafts, and stock diffs beyond this power level.

What about the 4 rotor? What about 700 WHP Social Media I see everywhere?

My expertise is building reliable street cars all the way to 2.5x the factory power rating

Rob Dahm builds awesome 4 rotor Pike’s Peak racing / 700 WHP 13B FC dyno proven motors / 12 rotors!

For those types of builds check out his social media - He’s doing awesome stuff, but I don’t think he’s running what I consider safe boost levels on 93 octane pump gas

E85: I haven’t had a chance to explore E85 other than my high HP MKIV cars. I’d like to but part of my problem is I don’t drive anything other than my truck daily, so by the time I get back to an FD the E85 has accumulated too much water. Unless you’re daily driving and cycling your gas tank every couple weeks, it’s advisable to maybe skip the E85 for now.

We can sell you just about anything you need to complete your motor build.

EVERY SINGLE part of a complete FD RX7 take out motor 13B-REW (anything that bolts to the keg, known good parts)

EVERY SINGLE part of a 13B-REW short block / keg (good usable low mileage irons taken from known running local motors or my cars (I always use new irons and rotor housings for my collection leaving known good exceptional parts available for the community.

Every keg major component (front, mid, rear irons, rotor housings, rotors, oil pan, front cove) plus parts bundles for the small stuff. We try keep at least one completely torn down keg + all engine accessories in stock at all times. If we don’t have it, we’ll find it for you.

Used known good short blocks tested on our engine stand with videos of it running and videos of a properly executed rotary compression test AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE plus a video of it hot starting afterwards. Nobody on ebay does this, don’t trust a compression test on a cold rotary - it test higher and doesn’t prove it will even hot start.

We can get your short block rebuilt to your specifications with all new rotor seals and all coolant seals / sealing kit. Depending on the complexity we’ll get it rebuilt here or with one of our local trusted / proven engine builders, and then we’ll test run it before shipping it to you.

We can get you a replacement motor or rebuild your motor with any parts you want to send us for zero parts mark-up. We can outsource complex machine work to proven rotary experts whether it’s porting (big street, Semi-Peripheral port, Bridge, half-bridge) or you want to strengthen the internals (optional dowel pins, 3mm apex seal machine work, etc.)

We will buy your short block or long block and help you ship it to us.

We pay you a base amount for the non-compression surfaces core (everything but the irons, rotor housings, rotors)

And then we can either work out a price and pay you before you ship it to us, or for the most money for your core, ship it to us and we’ll video the teardown and show the condtion of every single part and pay based on if it’s re-usable and whether it’s an A, B, C, or F grade (F grade parts make a nice coffee table engine).

Feel free to hit the contact us button at the bottom of every page and let us know what you need and how we can help!