Auto to Manual Swap Doc
Check out our step guide to converting an FD from automatic to manual with pictures and detailed instructions.
If you’ve ever driven both the FD auto and manual versions then you know why it needs to be converted to manual. The auto from the Mazda MPV minivan is geared too high, has just 3 power gears, and saps what torque the FD has.
Engine Removal and Reinstallation
Everything you need to know to remove the Engine from the car, strip it down to a short block, rebuild the rats nest, and send it off for a rebuild. Or just replace it with a new crate motor and sell yours for parts (take a compression test first though)
Step 1 - Engine Removal
Step by step guide to removing the FD engine from the car and reinstalling it. Complete with pictures and over 150 detailed steps.
Step 2 - Strip the engine down to the short block and instructions for building it back up.
Step 3 - Rats nest disassembly, rebuild, and testing.
Step 4 - Disassemble the FD Engine and inspect the parts before having it professionally rebuilt
Work in progress / Not published yet
Mod Progression
I’ve owned FD RX7s off and on since 1995 - The first one I bought was one of the infamous fire cars that led to the Fuel line recall. I had MazMart in Houston replace my fire damaged engine with one from a crashed FD. Drove it about 70k miles trouble free. The only mod I had was a K&N air filter. This car never ever broke down over 5 years of daily driving.
Started getting them modified in the early 2000’s and Rotary Performance got me to 315 WHP dyno’d with the stock twins. Drove that one about 10k miles trouble free and then moved on to a 911 Turbo so I could have a back seat for the kiddos.
Here are some suggested set of mods that work well together for various levels. There are many options out there, and I’m just sharing what’s worked for me and what are relatively safe sets of mods.
Stage 0 - The USDM FD RX7 with 255 HP at the flywheel / around 220 WHP.
Stage 1 - Here’s what you can do with the stock ECU that won’t get too lean and risk damaging the motor. Free flowing intake and exhaust adds around 35-40 WHP and increases the engine sound output.
Mazda Stock Twin turbocharger assembly (93-95)
Mazda stock ECU
Rotary Performance Downpipe (#1 mod for any FD outside of CA is to remove the damaging pre-cat that causes the turbo manifold to retain heat and crack).
Rotary Performance Hi Flow Cat (replace the restricted OEM main cat, but DO NOT RUN A MIDPIPE WITH THE STOCK ECU. YOU WILL blow your motor from leaning out / boost creep with a midpipe and the stock ECU)
Catback Exhaust system - Many to choose from
Stock injectors 550cc Primary, 850cc Secondary
Apexi or HKS twin air intake systems (or others) - This is safe with the stock ECU
Stock Intercooler
Efini Y Pipe - Replaces the plastic cross over tube and one rubber coupler on the charge pipe feeding the intercooler
Boost Gauge - Keep an eye on your boost pattern to make sure your secondary turbo is working right
Drakes steering column 52mm gauge pod
<DO NOT DELETE THE AIR PUMP, AND DO NOT GET A MIDPIPE WITH THE STOCK ECU - Motor damage will likely occur>
Stage 2 - Here’s what you can do with maxed out stock twins if you add an after market ECU (Power FC), larger secondary injectors, and go to a catless midpipe without an air pump. This is a list of mods from one of my Montego Blue FDs that I’ve been driving this summer 2023 that dyno’d at 315WHP when it was 108 degrees ambient air temperature in the dyno shop. It’s nearly 50% more power over stock and the car is completely transformed. With some great coilovers, anti-sway bars, new brake pads and rotors it’s very well balanced.
Fresh Vacuum lines and solenoid test / remove any ancient original LIM paper gasket if it’s still present.
Mazda Stock Twin turbocharger assembly (93-95) with ported wastegate to support midpipe - If you don’t port the wastegate you will get boost creep with a midpipe and possibly blow your motor.
Premix - 1/2 ounce per gallon with Oil Metering Pump
Apexi Power FC with OLED commander Dyno tuned by Rotary Performance to 0.95 bar
Rotary Performance Downpipe
Rotary Performance midpipe
Peter Farrell Supercars (PFS) Catback Exhaust
Rotary Performance fuel rail with Bosch 2200cc Secondary Injectors, OEM primary 550cc injectors
HKS Racing Suction Air Intake Filter Kit for Mazda RX-7 FD, part no. 70020-AZ101
Pettit Racing Intercooler
Pettit Racing Intercooler Duct Cool Charge
Efini Y Pipe - Replaces the plastic cross over tube and one rubber coupler on the charge pipe feeding the intercooler
Banzai Racing Air Pump removal pulley (FFE FD Idler Pulley Kit)
Banzai Racing chrome pulley kit with appropriate length belt
GM Wideband 3 bar map sensor
Banzai Racing 3 bar map sensor bracket
AEM AVM-30-4110 Gauge, Wideband UEGO, Digital, Air/Fuel Ratio, Lean/Rich, 52mm
Boost Gauge - Keep an eye on your boost pattern to make sure you’re getting full power
Drakes steering column 52mm gauge pod
Fortune Auto 510 Coilovers
Racing Beat Sway Bar set front and rear
Cross drilled / slotted rotors with after market brade pads
Stage 3 - Single Turbo - I’m working on this setup and having the motor built, stay tuned for more once the build gets put together.
Ported motor with 3mm Mazda Apex Seals by Rotary Performance
Premix - 1/2 ounce per gallon with Oil Metering Pump
HKS Special Setup turbo kit with GTIII-4R turbo (good to about 440 WHP)
Greddy V Mount kit for FD version 2 with Intercooler and Radiator
Link ECU (or equivalent) tuned by Rotary Performance
Tomei Titanium Midpipe
Tomei Titanium Catback Exhaust
Rotary Performance fuel rail with Bosch 2200cc Secondary Injectors, OEM primary 550cc injectors
Banzai Racing Air Pump removal pulley (FFE FD Idler Pulley Kit)
Banzai Racing chrome pulley kit with appropriate length belt
GM Wideband 3 bar map sensor
Banzai Racing 3 bar map sensor bracket
AEM AVM-30-4110 Gauge, Wideband UEGO, Digital, Air/Fuel Ratio, Lean/Rich, 52mm
Boost Gauge
Drakes steering column 52mm gauge pod
Stage 4 - Future 3 Rotor project